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The Richelieu, called Oxford shoes in the English-speaking world, is considered the most elegant shoe in the men's wardrobe. Recognizable by its closed lacing, it is distinguished by a fine and refined silhouette which makes it the absolute reference for dress shoes for men.

Very present in the sartorial world and in English, Italian and French boot makers, the brogue comes in several emblematic shapes: straight toe cap, brogue, whole cut, cap toe or even semi-brogue.

Each model has its own aesthetic characteristics and uses: some are ideal for ceremonies, others for a business style or a more casual chic register.

In this guide, discover the main forms of brogue and their specificities.

The Richelieu straight toe cap (Cap Toe)

The brogue straight toe cap, also called cap toe Oxford, is one of the most classic forms of dress shoes

It is characterized by a horizontal piece of leather sewn on the front of the foot, called “straight toe cap”. This construction gives the shoe an elegant visual structure while remaining very sober.

Why choose an oxford straight toe cap ?

The cap toe brogue is particularly appreciated for:

• Its timeless elegance
• Its versatility
• Its ability to accompany more formal and professional outfits
• Its timeless elegance

It is an ideal model for:

• A suit
• A ceremony
• A formal event

In shades like black or dark brown, it remains a must-have in the men's wardrobe.

The Oxford Brogue

The brogue brogue is distinguished by its decorative perforations in the leather, called broguing.

Originally, these perforations had a practical function: they allowed water to escape when the shoes were worn in the Scottish and Irish countryside.

Today, they have become a iconic aesthetic element.

The different variations of brogues

There are several levels of broguing:

Full brogue (Wingtip)
The design forms characteristic wings on the forefoot. 

Semi-brogue
The perforations only decorate the straight toe cap and some seams.

Quarter brogue
The perforations are more discreet and are limited to the line of the straight toe cap.

When to wear a brogue brogue?

The brogue adds a touch of character and is perfect for:

• elegant business outfits
• in textured suits like a Prince of Wales
  
• with contemporary sartorial looks

The Richelieu Whole Cut (One Cut)

The whole cut brogue represents the ultimate expression of minimalism and shoemaking know-how.

Unlike other models, it is made from from a single piece of leather, with no visible seam on the upper.

This construction requires:

• High quality leather
  
  
• High cutting precision
• A very technical assembly

Why is the whole cut so popular?

The whole cut is often considered as:

• the most elegant brogue
• Style the purest
• a particularly refined shoe

It is very popular for:

• the ceremonies
• very formal outfits
• tailor-made suits

The Plain Toe Richelieu

The plain toe brogue is one of the purest forms.

It does not include no seams on the forefoot, unlike the cap toe.

Its minimalist design makes it an extremely modern and elegant shoe.

It is often chosen for:

• contemporary costumes
• minimalist looks
• a modern business style

How to choose your Richelieu?

The choice of an oxford depends mainly on the use and style sought.

For a very formal style

• Richelieu whole cut

• Richelieu straight toe cap black

For business use

• Richelieu cap toe

• Richelieu semi-brogue

For an assertive sartorial style

• Richelieu full brogue

• Patinated leather brogue

Beyond the shape, the quality of the leather, the construction (Goodyear, Blake) and the finesse of the shape are essential elements to obtain a durable and elegant shoe.